Gear List Intro

This is my always-evolving bike trip packing list, which should be generally applicable whether you’re going on or off road, and assumes you’re camping and riding solo or serving as the water buffalo for your kids gear (see the Kids section for the stuff I add when bringing the little ones).

Most of my gear choices are informed by years of backpacking. I also ride road and mountain bikes, so I try to use gear that overlaps and serves multiple purposes. 

Generally, more money buys lower weight and more compact gear. For me that’s important since I’m often carrying gear for me and three children so a $300 sleeping bag that’s the size of a football is a worthwhile investment. The fact that the same sleeping bag works great for backpacking is also a bonus for me, but may not be for you. Do recall whatever you pack needs to be transported under your own power, and that 1lb whatever that seemed super important might become the bane of your existence when you’re cranking it up a never-ending climb.

This list is somewhere between living in abject luxury, and going for an ultralight assault on singletrack with 8K climbs each day. Adjust accordingly if you need more or less weight, and ultimately keep a log of what you do and do not use on your trips and eliminate gear you’re routinely not using, unless it’s a key “insurance” item like a spare tube. I’ve generally found that less is more, especially with clothes that can be worn multiple times, and washed at camp in anything from a Ziplock bag, to a sink, to on your body during a swim. Even the seemingly small number of clothing items allows for an infinite number of days on the road assuming you can wash key items (cycling shorts) in camp each evening, and dry the newly cleaned set while wearing the other set.

The list is broken into sections, and where applicable a link to any field tests that I’ve performed is included, as well as an Amazon link if they sell the item. These are what Amazon calls “affiliate links.” You get the same exact price everyone else on Amazon would get, and I get a small percentage “finder’s fee” on the sale, which helps feed the water buffalo, and pay for de-leeching. If Amazon doesn’t sell it I’ve provided a link as well. I’ve bought everything on the list unless noted, so nothing is “sponsored” or provided free, and is included because it works for me.

I’ve tried to include my rationale for the item, and whether I’d consider it optional or mandatory. You’ll also find a “version history” at the beginning so you can see how the list has evolved, and “Version 1.0” is actually the result of about 4 years of riding solo and with my family.

Finally, realize that adventuring by bicycle combines several skillsets. Assuming you’re camping, you’ll need to deal with riding a bike (obviously), setting up camp, cooking in the wild, and potentially “emergency” skills like basic first aid and bicycle repair. This can seem intimidating so if you’ve never spent a night in the woods, or are peddaling your first mile, consider focusing on one or two skills at a time, or take a “mini tour” a few miles from where you live, so if a challenge arises that’s too much for your skillset you can grab and Uber or walk home.

Gear Buying Tips

There’s an expression in auto racing to “run what you brung,” which despite the awkward grammar expresses a legitimate sentiment: the bike adventure you take today with the gear you have is going to be way better than the adventure you don’t take because you don’t have some mythical item some dude or dudette on the internet told you that you need.

My gear may be more or less expensive than your budget, however consider that people have successfully toured the world on rusty single speed bicycles with “panniers” made (literally) from kitty litter boxes. You can ride $10K carbon race bike while a “sag wagon” totes your gear between luxury hotels, or have the time of your life on a squeaky rust bucket. At the end of the day, you do you and use what feels comfortable, and getting out there and starting with what you already own is always better than sitting on the couch waiting for the “perfect” gear.

Watch for the regular sales at outdoor companies like REI and Backcountry.com. They usually occur around summer holidays like Memorial Day and Labor Day. At least once or twice a year these guys will run 20% off sales that most competitors will match, and it’s a great time to snag that expensive Therm-a-rest pad or sleeping bag that never seems to go on sale otherwise.

Used gear is fine as well, although be careful with used tents since the newer ones (manufactured in the last 10 years or so) use an inferior but supposedly environmentally friendly waterproofing that essentially self-destructs after 5-15 years. If the tent floor or rain fly feels “slimy” or is visibly flaking in spots avoid it or you’ll end up wet.

Bike(s) and Bike-Related

The best bike for touring is the one you already own. Like any hobby you can spend $10 or $10,000, but don’t let the bike and gear companies convince you that you can’t go on adventure without some special bike.

I bought a close-out Fargo (before gravel riding was the new hotness) and turned it into a heavy duty/light off-road touring rig. I added Tubus front and rear racks, custom-built heavy duty wheel set with a dynamo hub, dynamo lighting, and a Brooks saddle.

Shelter and Sleeping

Unless you’re “credit card touring,” which is the fancy way of saying you’re staying in hotels each night, you’ll need a place to lay your head, which usually means a tent and sleeping bag. Hammocks are also an option, albeit one I haven’t explored.

I have several tents, depending on whether I’m flying solo or travelling with my family of five. On the latter, there are plenty of high-quality, lightweight tents available in the one, two, and three person formats, but for whatever reason (perhaps tent makers don’t have families?) there’s essentially nothing but heavy and bulky “car camping” tents once you exceed the relatively scarce 4-person offerings. To get around that, I’ll pack a 2 and 4-person when out with the family. It’s actually lighter and easier to divide up than a 6-person “car camping” tent, and also provides some additional flexibility for when I’m backpacking with my oldest child, or doing a bike trip with two of the kids.

Like most gear, you pay for light weight and small size. Do be aware that most tent “person” ratings are quite liberal. Not in the sense that you and your tent will get an invite to appear as a guest on MSNBC, but in the sense that a 1-person is just enough room for an adult human and pretty much nothing else, while a 2-person is more suited for an adult and a child, or an adult and some gear.

Many tents have a “vestibule” which is a small area covered by the rain fly for gear storage. When adventuring by bike I just leave my gear (except food and some personal items) in my panniers and on the bike.

It’s delicious, it’s wet, and it hopefully gives you an idea of the size of all the other items.

Recently acquired tent for solo missions. Neat “awning” that you can lash to your bike.

Field Test coming soon.

We humans still haven’t invented anything better than goose down for warmth to weight. This bag packs small, keeps you warm in the shoulder season, and checks in a bit of a pound.

If you’re looking for a bag for your kids, don’t be swayed by the “kids size” sleeping bags. They’re inferior in just about every way in terms of quality, and they’ll outgrow the bag quickly. I made that mistake once and then upgraded all the kids to “real” adult bags that are actually lighter and warmer than the smaller “kids” bag.

A good ground pad makes the difference between a comfortable night and being cold and sore. I like the manually inflating pads and have had good luck with Therm-a-Rest over the years and I still have a 30-year old self-inflating pad from them that works as well as new. The new Winglock valve is nice and worth the extra few bucks.

You can supposedly inflate by mouth but I worry about the moisture from my breath creating mildew on the inside of the pad, so you can use the “inflating sack” they provide or the totally frivolous “micro pump” that’s item H.

A liner is basically a cloth “sleeping bag-sized sheet” that does a few things for you. If you’re out in the southern summer, you can leave your sleeping back at home and sleep in the liner. In the winter, it adds 2-5 degrees of warmth to your sleeping bag rating. Finally, it’s easier to wash than your whole bag (just toss it in the laundry) so it absorbs some of your “funk” and keeps the stank off your sleeping bag. They have lines in various materials from silk to this one which is a polyester.

If you’re handy with a sewing machine (I’m not) you can make your own out of an old sheet.

A bit in the “nice to have” department, I like to have a lantern of some sort in camp rather than just relying on a headlamp. It’s nice for cooking and hanging in your tent at night, or hanging in your camp as a “beacon” to guide you “home” when nature calls.

I’ve experimented with various options from candles to solar, and this guy works pretty well. He’s USB chargeable like just about everything else I carry that’s electric, has varying brightness, and a funky clip that works in various positions. It even includes a bike mount so you can use it as a taillight, and also works as a battery pack for an emergency phone charge.

A pillow might sound frivolous, but I am a firm believer that 90% of people who “hate camping” feel that way due to sleeping poorly when camping. On a bike or backpacking trip where you’re expending significant energy, a good night of sleep will work wonders.

This inflatable pillow is obscenely light (2 oz) and small, and also surprisingly comfortable. The “free” alternative is putting some clothing in a stuff sack and using that as a pillow. It’s certainly better than nothing although tends to be lumpy and uneven.

As mentioned above, I worry about moisture from manual inflation generating mildew or damage to an expensive ground pad. Therm-a-Rest and similar pads provide an “inflation sack” which is essentially a stuff sack that slips over the valve and allows for manual inflation without using your lungs, but do that about twice, let alone for your family of 5, and you’ll be fed up.

While seemingly a complete useless gadget, this mini pump runs on two AAA batteries and will inflate your pad ever so slowly but effectively. Be aware there are different versions for the different valves, and you may not be able to mix brands. These go on sale so I’d be warry of paying full price for what’s ultimately a convenience item.

It’s clothes line in camp, extra cord for tying a flapping tent in a strong wind, an emergency means of attaching stuff to your bike, a way to hang your bear bag, and a dozen other things for minimal weight and space.

Paracord is a bit like duct tape in that it’s endlessly useful. Get a neon color so you don’t clothesline yourself with your clothes line (ask me how I know). They also have some with reflective threads embedded to avoid tripping at night.

Cooking

Food is a bit of a personal subject, and you can range from trail gourmet to basic “meals in a bag” down to not cooking at all and relying on restaurants and grocery stores for 100% of your meals.

I use a bit of a compromise model. I love cooking at home, but when travelling solo it feels like a burden. I don’t eat breakfast so I plan for morning coffee, lunch and dinner in trail towns, and a couple of easily prepared backup meals. This setup also allows for basic cooking if you’re far from towns for an extended period.

Two schools of thought on stoves. One is to go with a “canister” stove like the JetBoil that uses disposable canisters of fuel. With the JetBoil there’s an integrated “pot” and heat exchanger so you get fast cooks and compact storage, but on the other hand have a disposable cylinder that may or may not be full before you start a trip (pro tip, use a kitchen scale to determine how full a canister is. The “full” weight is printed on the side).

Pictured here is your other option, a liquid fuel stove. This model will burn just about anything from “Coleman fuel” aka white gas (basically purified gasoline without and additives), to jet fuel, to diesel, to regular gasoline. It’s a bit heavier overall, doesn’t boil as quick, but it sips fuel at about 1-2oz/day, allowing for 10+ days of cooking with the pictured 22oz fuel bottle. This stove also simmers nicely, and can use whatever cookware you want.

Snow Peak makes cool stuff in Japan (where they make cool stuff in general, like robots). This cookset is titanium so stupid light and I leave the smaller pot/lid home to drop even more weight.

The lid acts as a frying pan, and I can stuff items C-I in there as well to reduce space and keep cooking-related items together.

Better than matches, will survive just about anything (including a trip through the washing machine), and available anywhere.

I don’t like that it’s disposable, but I’ve tried fancier refillable lighters and they fail, the fuel evaporates, or they just plain suck.

Keep one in your cook set and one in another bag and buy the bright colors so you’re not searching for that cool camo one that seemed like a good idea at the time.

Seems frivolous until you try to cleanup a pot full of congealed oatmeal. Scrape the sides of your pot, eating what you scrape off (mama would be proud).

Some cat-like people do nothing more than the “scrape and lick” and call everything “clean,” I’d still hit the pot, scraper, and spork with some boiling water and a touch of soap to avoid getting sick.

Not much to it. Just don’t grab the same one you use to clean the toilet. Combined with the pot scraper makes dishes a breeze.

Yup, it’s literally a bag for water. It’s also the best thing since sliced bread. When you’re in camp, you’re going to use a lot of water for everything from drinking, to cooking, to brushing your teeth, etc., and a water bag lets you minimize your trips to the water source which could be a long walk (or even a few miles) away.

This particular one is TINY when empty and light, especially compared to the MSR bag I used to carry. Has tie down points so you can lash it to your bike if you need to carry extra water, although the kids broke the strap on mine somehow.

3L is just about right when solo, I go for a 3L and 4L when with the whole family.

Wash your dishes (and/or ya’ ass although I prefer the minty freshness of Dr. Bronners for the latter). A little (like one drop) is enough to clean up your pot, cup, and spork.

Collapsible, insulated mug/cup. Use it for coffee, use it for oatmeal or soup, and use it as a measuring cup since it has markings on the side.

I also have their X-Lite plate/bowl, which has a nice hard bottom to use as a cutting board and nicely nests the cup, but if I’m solo I just eat out of the pot like a caveman should.

Sporks aren’t just for Taco Bell anymore! They’re good for adventuring since one utensil does it all (combined with your knife for cutting).

There are tons of choices for your sporking needs, however I use this one most since:

1. It folds so easily fits in my pot and doesn’t poke into anything or get the tines bent
2. It’s cheap
3. When unfolded the handle is long which is good for stirring and eating from “meals in a bag”
4. Several color choices so everyone can get their own color to keep track of which spork is theirs

Just because I eat out of my pot doesn’t mean I’m a complete savage! Trail coffee is an absolute delight, and after your first couple of runs with Sanka, cowboy coffee, or those overpriced Starbucks “magic crystals” you may want to consider something more advanced.

The pictured press does a fine job, isn’t too heavy, and will made a about four cups. If you go with the JetBoil stove, they make a nice French Press thing that fits in their special “pot” adding very little bulk and weight, just make sure you get the right model for your stove as there are a couple different options.

If you’ve never used a French Press, basically you just add ground coffee, add water, stir, let sit 2 minutes and then push down the plunger thing. I’ll brew a “pot” while I pack up in the morning.

They have multiple sizes, from weekend trip to extended tour. I have water bottle bosses on my downtube so I put a bottle cage there and can stash my fuel bottle on the bike so there’s no risk of smelly, gassy gear should a leak occur.

Nothing special as it comes with your stove. Easily stored in your fuel bottle but I worry about it picking up road grit so I keep it separate from the bottle. Give the pump shaft a bit of oil every now and again and it will work for years.

Keeps the critters out of your grub. If you do nothing else don’t store food or scented items (toothpaste) in your tent or gear. Critters will easily chew through your expensive tent or panniers to get that delicious-smelling Snickers bar and then you’re dealing with a bag with a hole in the bottom.

This is a recent addition. In the past I’ve just put my food in a stuff sack and will hang low’ish if worried about rodents, and high for bears.

Clothing

I’ve found I tend to overpack on clothing, so I try to note what I don’t use and avoid carrying it in the future. Basically, I’ve optimized to 3 “sets” of clothes plus rain/cold gear: 2 sets of cycling clothes, and one set of camp/city clothes. The operating assumption is that I wear one set of cycling clothes, give at least the shorts a wash in the evening, let that set dry the next day while wearing the set that’s now clean and dry. Rinse (literally) and repeat.

“Washing” could be as simple as a couple drops of soap and running under a sink or well in camp, and drying is hanging on your paracord clothesline, and then strapping to your bike rack assuming a sunny day should additional drying be required.

On longer breaks in town you can do legitimate laundry, just be careful about blasting cycling clothes in a hot dryer and it supposedly can damage the fabric.

Here’s my getup from head to toe.

On-the-bike Clothing from head to toe

I’m not the helmet police so if you don’t want to wear one, relax, I’m not going to lecture you.

If you do and don’t already have a helmet, I like a well-vented road-style helmet. They’re cooler, lighter, and make you look 8% faster, plus I already have one for riding my road bike.

Try and replace your helmet every five years or so, and try to avoid dropping it. They work by essentially compressing to absorb shock, so each time you drop it you loose some of that brain-saving ability.

Look for a MIPS-rated helmet. I’m not sure exactly what that means but people smarter than I tell me it does a better job protecting your brain.

Aside from making you look awesome and keeping nasty lightwaves out of your eyes, shades keep wind, bugs, and grit out of your peepers as well.

You’re likely to drop, lose, or scratch them on an adventure, so I’d leave your high-performance specs at home and grab something that’s OK optically but not going to bring about tears when you sit on them. I find Goodr to be “good enough” and have lots of lens and style options.

It’s a COVID/Bandito mask, sweatband, hat, potholder, sun blocker, and a dozen other things at almost no weight.

There are a few schools of thought on shirts and I’ve subscribed to several of them.

The basic option is just wear a general athletic shirt. The main problem here is that they’re too short in the back (crack kills), aren’t easy to ventilate, and don’t have any storage.

The second school is the traditional cycling jersey that looks like what the Tour de France guys wear. It’s more fitted so it doesn’t flap around in the wind, there are 3 large helpful pockets on the back for snacks, extra layers, and water bottles, it unzips for ventilation, and it’s in garish colors to pimp your sponsors. This is what I wear when riding on my road bike where the goal is to go fast and kick your own ass. If you go this route be aware that most sizing is “European,” so my svelte American L/XL body becomes a beastly XXL and occasionally a massive XXXL (I once tipped the scales at a XXXXXL in China).

When I first started adventuring I wore my road riding jerseys, but you’re generally not going fast, and you’re more likely to be having a brew than rocking a 40mph descent. This is where an emerging class of “casual cycling” jerseys comes in. I haven’t fully tested these (watch for a review) but initial results are positive. It looks like a “I’m going for a beer” flannel shirt, but it’s made of performance fabric, has a small pocket in the back, and snap buttons for ventilation.

Lighter and more compact than a jacket, and a bit more versatile. 

The athlete’s version of military “dog tags,” provides your name, and contact info for next of kin so they can avenge your death. Lots of different sizes and styles, and they frequently go on sale or have deals.

Yes, I know you can put a fancy ICE contact in your phone and whatnot, but I’d rather have something obvious that doesn’t need batteries, works internationally, and will stay attached to my bleeding body so someone can call for backup.

Yes, these are “spandex” cycling shorts that may be well outside your fashion comfort zone. Before you turn away in disgust, there’s a reason everyone who had ridden a bicycle more than a dozen miles owns several pairs: they keep you from getting chafing and “saddle sores” which are painful blisters on your butt and man/woman parts.

There’s a pad called a chamois (pronounced “shammy”) to protect your jewels, and the tight fit prevents the chafing that would occur as loose-fitting shorts rubbed your legs over and over. You wear them with no underwear, although I’m told by the ladies a thong can be preferred, and for a longer trip apply some anti-chafe cream to keep your undercarriage happy for days on end.

There are two options for chamois: standard shorts, and a “bib” that essentially had built-in suspenders that keep the shorts from riding down while you’re on the bike. I have and like both, although I usually bring shorts on an adventure since they’re easier to deal with. You’ll have to try a few brands, styles and sizes to find what you like, so ideally go to a cycling store that will let you try things on (wearing underwear in this case) since you generally can’t return a Chamois, much like a bathing suit.

If tight clothing isn’t your thing, then worry not because the next item on the list is a pair of overshorts.

All the stuff that makes a chamois great for cycling makes them kind of bad as regular shorts. No pockets, sweat-soaked, awkwardly tight for being out in society, etc.

The mountain bike (MTB) crowd fixed this problem with overshorts, which as the name implies are shorts you wear over your chamois. Why not just wear regular shorts you ask? Well, the overshorts are designed to move with you, are made of performance fabric, and generally have zippered pockets that are designed not to drop your stuff or allow it to awkwardly smash/rub with each pedal stroke.

This particular brand is new to me so watch for a review. Some overshorts include a chamois liner, but I would avoid this as chamois fit is very personal, and you don’t want to end up with awesome shorts with a terrible chamois or vice versa.

Just like arm warmers, but for your legs, although harder to don/doff while riding. More compact than bringing a separate set of long chamois.

Merino socks are nice when it’s cooler and they also don’t get as stinky. A cotton/blend is nicer when it’s hot. If you’re in the shoulder season, bring one of each.

I ride clipless pedals so I go with a compatible cycling shoe. I’ve tried sandals in the past, and while these are new they look somewhat sneaker-like and seem to strike a good balance between stiffness and “walk-ability.”

I’ve dreamed of “one shoe to rule bike and camp” and that’s the only thing that might drive me away from clipless pedals on my adventure bike, and towards flats and something like a trail running shoe, but for now I’m keeping my clipless.

Bike Care

Even on a weekend tour, it’s worth having some basic tools, and with bicycles being rather simple machines, I can make most adjustments and fixes to my bike to keep my adventure rolling with the tools above.

Many people ask which tools they should get, and whether X is more important than Y, but the most important aspect of any tool is knowing how to use it. Fortunately, that’s a fairly easy task these days with YouTube videos on nearly any bicycle-related task, from the simple process of changing a flat, to building a bicycle from the frame up.

Practice at home with the tools in your kit, and you’ll quickly learn what you’re missing, what would be nice to have, and what you can leave at home. At the bare minimum I’d suggest changing a flat (just deflate the tire for practice) on both the front and rear tires. Murphy’s Law dictates that when you need to do it for real it will be raining and you’ll be crammed into a tiny shoulder on a busy road, in the dead of night while being chased by cougars.

Once you’re comfortable with that, practice adjusting your derailleur, cleaning and oiling your chain, and basic bike inspection and tuning. I’d also suggest you install any accessories you buy (racks, lights, etc.) as that will build your competence and give you the skills to fix them should they require adjustment.

Details coming soon…

Coming soon…

Gadgets

I probably “over index” on the gadget front, but most of these items have multiple uses and are useful (to me, anway) outside bicycle adventuring. Build your own list as needed.

The cornerstone of my gadget philosophy is that everything with a battery that I carry should be USB-rechargable using the battery pack in the picture, which I can charge via my bike dynamo (essentially a micro generator in my front wheel), the wall plug adapter, or topped up via the inbuilt solar panel. With this setup, I can keep everything charged nearly indefinitely as long as I’m moving.

Photography is a hobby of mine, so my gadget portfolio supports that and allows me to capture pictures, edit them on the iPad, and then share through various channels (including this one).

Details coming soon…

There are a zillion battery packs out there, and I put some thought into this choice, so why this one? Several reasons:

1. It’s large enough capacity to keep my stuff charged for about a week and can charge 3 devices at once
2. It has “pass-through charging” which means it can charge itself while charging another device that’s plugged in at the same time. This is important since you can have it plugged into the dynamo hub, and it can charge itself while the wheel spins, and continue to power your device whether your rolling or not versus having your device cycle on and off as power comes and goes, which can cause a variety of problems. It also helps in that you can plug into an outlet should you come across one, and charge the battery and some devices simultaneously.
3. You can charge the bank via regular old mini-USB AND USB-C. This is important since it’s about 18 hours to charge to full via regular USB, and probably 4-6 hours via USB-C. The USB port “goes both ways” and can accept a charge, or rapid charge a compatible phone or iPad. There are an increasing number of devices that charge via USB-C so this provides some “future proofing” and USB-C can be significantly faster so it’s worth using if the device supports it.
4. There’s a solar panel. This isn’t going to fully charge the battery in any meaningful way (charge time is probably in weeks rather than hours) but it give a little trickle charge when in camp or on a break.

Charge your battery pack, and one other device when you’re at an outlet. This guy is rather small for a 65W charger, yet powerful enough to charge a Macbook. USB-C is way faster for charging the above battery pack so you can get meaningful juice over an hour lunch rather than a few 10th’s of a percent.

Charge the battery pack from the wall adapter, and charge the iPad from the battery pack. Also allows high-speed data transfer.

Aside from the awkward name, this is a great card reader for SD (Cameras) and and Micro-SD (Drones and GoPros) cards. It will connect to computers, phones, and my iPad via regular USB, Mini-USB, or USB-C.

Let’s me charge two “things” at a time, and works for everything but my watch. Seems to work a bit better for Apple stuff than the non-certified knockoff cables.

My Garmin watch is the only device that needs a special cable. I hate the special cable but love my Garmin so I put up with it.

Apple finally fulfilled their promise that you could do “real work” with an iPad and it could serve as your only travel computer. I can access all my work stuff, content creation, and photography tools while on the road, and also watch the occasional movie, view maps, or goof around. Far from cheap, but light, compact, and 95% as capable as a Macbook or Windows equivalent.

Keyboard cover is “good enough” to touch type 700-1000 word articles and battery life is good for several days between charges.

I got this for my first backpacking trip with my then 5-year old son, fully intending to return it, unused, after our trip. It turned out this is an incredibly useful device if you spend any time outside the growing reach of mobile phone networks. With a couple taps you can send an “I’m OK” message to a predefined list of people, share your location, and communicate via two-way text messaging.

It feels like 2000’s-era technology compared to a modern iPhone, but it wildly reassuring for those at home to know you’re OK, and to be able to look at a map and see you’re still moving without doing much of anything.’

There’s also an SOS (aka call in the Calvary) button, and I’ve explained to the kids how to use it should dad bust himself in a not-immediately-recoverable manner and find reassuring when on solo trips where help might be hours or days away.

It’s a phone, it’s a camera, it’s mapping, it’s a weather device it’s…. no longer 2002 so I don’t have to explain what a smartphone is. Use what you like… whether Android, Apple, or whatever.

One pro tip: disable all the automatic turn on features (shake to wake, raise to activate, etc.) or you’ll find your battery dead after a few hours.I also recommend turning off the wireless features when in the backcountry as the battery will rapidly drain if the phone is frequently searching for a signal.

Version History

Version 1.0

• Adapted my long-evolving list into this post